Realize whatever exit point temp you set at the TMV is unlikely to reach your taps at this same exact temp based on long runs, friction and heat loss throught the piping. Expect a -10 F loss on average for second story homes. Regardless of your boiler or water tank aquastats. They will not over-ride the TMV mixture unless at extreme high temps. Not an advised strategy and a waste of $$$.If you want or need a true anti-scald below 120 F at the taps...go with the "white cap" Cash Acme TMV here:SharkBite 24530 "White Cap" Anti-scald Mixing Valve 3/4 Inch SharkBite LF, Push-to-Connect, PEX, Copper, CPVC (80-120 F max range).If you want the luxury to reach over 110+ F at your taps...buy this "red cap" TMV (a hydronic TMV fully adjustable from 80-176 F deg range. It is 100% interchangeable and same thread and dims if you wanna try the white cap first and swap it out later. A 25 minute changeover. Pricing is around same for either TMV.Bottom line: the white cap TMV and you're prob looking at 105-110 F (max) at your taps. Use the red cap TMV and you can adjust to whatever you want based upon your home plumbing zone runs. "White cap" and you can't go any higher. "Red cap" and you can always go above or below 120 F since it has a far greater high-limit range of useability at 80-176 F.